FOCUS
From start to finish, it was a love fest. The May 1st dinner celebrating the 30th anniversary of the Duke of Bourbon, in independent wine shop in Canoga Park, California, featured testimonials from a succession of wine industry luminaries. Honored guests included Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat; Jamie Davies and her son , Hugh, of Schramsberg Vineyards; Dan and Margaret Duckhorn of Duckhorn Vineyards; Bob and Zelma Long of Long Vineyards; and Michael Martini of Louis M. Martini Winery.

But perhaps the most fitting moment of the evening occurred when Duke of Bourbon owner David Breitstein, a MARKET WATCH LEADER since 1990, asked a guest at the dinner to stand and be recognized: Chet Koski, who purchased the very first full case of wine sold by the Duke of Bourbon on May 5, 1967.

That the store's first big wine customer was still there 30 years later testifies to what the Duke of Bourbon and the Breitsteins are all about: relationships and loyalty. The family owned and operated store in the west San Fernando Valley has survived for three decades in one of the most competitive retail markets in the country precisely because of its philosophy of taking care of customers and suppliers.

"There base is the friendships that they hold in the wine industry," says Michael Martini, "They are loyal to their suppliers as well as to their customers, which you don't get with the chain stores."

When David and Judy Breitstein opened their liquor store in 1967, there wasn't much competition. As they expanded the store's business into fine wine, they began to carve out a niche, supplying area residents with some of the best from the newly emerging California premium wine industry and from the well-established properties in France and elsewhere.

"We weren't large when we first met David and Judy, and they've been very instrumental in helping us do so well," said Dan Duckhorn. "It's because they've stuck to the philosophy of being a true wine merchant. Their mailings have been innovative, their seminars, their wine club, their attention to the consumers' needs -- they're merchants in the true sense."

Along the way, there were many "firsts," chronicled in a detailed two-page time line compiled by Judy Breitstein. David Breitstein made his first pilgrimage to the Napa Valley in 1969. The "Duke" published its first newsletter, the Vine-Line, back in 1971. In 1973, the store began offering large-format bottles; today, the store's collection is one of the most extensive in the nation. In 1983, the Breitsteins formed the Wine Association of the Duke of Bourbon, a tasting club that sponsors seminars, wine dinners and other educational events.

Coincidentally, 1997 marks a 20-year anniversary of sorts for the Breitstein's son. Ron, who first worked at the store at age 14 in 1977 and later left for college and a stint in the movie business before returning to retailing. Last year, Ron and Henrik Van Leuven's food and wine book, Wine and Dine: California Fine Wines Matched with Gourmet Recipes, was published.



Au Bon Climat's special bottling of Ici/La-Bas 1995 Oregon Pinot Noir stepped out with four other custom-
blended and labeled wines at the Duke of Bourbon's anniversary gala.
To fete the 30th anniversary, the Breitsteins worked with five major suppliers to select and blend special bottlings with custom labels. Schramsberg Vineyards provided a late-disgorged 1988 Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine. Long Vineyards made a 1995 Chardonnay from a 30-year-old vineyard. Au Bon Climat provided a special bottling of Ici/La-Bas 1995 Oregon Pinot Noir. From the Louis M. Martini Winery came a 1994 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, and from Duckhorn Vineyards came a 1994 Merlot. The final blends for all wines were either personally selected or specified by the Breitsteins. All told, the Duke of Bourbon bought approximately 1,000 cases of their 30th anniversary wines which will be sold at the store throughout the year.

The wines made their debut at a dinner for 200 at Los Angeles' Four Seasons Hotel, where they were matched with a six-course banquet created by executive chef Carrie Nahabedian. The event provided an opportunity for the Breitsteins to recognize individuals who had contributed to their success over the years, ranging from family members to employees to winery executives.

There was even some vintage 1997 at the event. "Duke" customers Laura and Chris Hite brought their new baby daughter, Hailey, to the dinner. "Our sitter was sick, and rather than eat the $200, I decided to risk it," said Chris Hite with a grin. Hailey, just two weeks old, slept through the cocktail reception, speeches and dinner like a seasoned event-goer.

- Jean T. Barrett
Jean T. Barrett is a contributing editor of MARKET WATCH
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